You will notice that in the majority of handbags and fashion garments, exposed zippers predominantly have metal teeth to add shine and interest. But the great news is that these methods will work equally as well with either metal or plastic zippers. Save yourself a trip to the shops and just use what you have in your stash!
On the wrong side of the stay, use a marker pen or pencil to mark the position of the zipper. The size of this opening will determine how much of the zipper will show. Don't forget to add at least ¼ inch seam allowance to the sides.
1. Preparation: Sew your seam as usual, all the way to the top of the garment. You will be sewing shut the area where the exposed zipper will be placed. Finish the edges and press open the seam.
4. Stitch the Zipper: Like the previous methods, it is now time to install the zipper foot on your machine. Starting at the top, stitch down the sides and bottom of the zipper. Stitch down the inside and outside of the tape and then across the bottom.
You will have a Cheshire cat grin on your face at the end of it all as your zipper bears its teeth and gives your garment a fine finishing touch. So go on and try out a zippy new addition to your wardrobe.
While we're going to show you how to sew an exposed zipper using our Starboard Jeans pattern, the technique is the same regardless of the garment. So feel free to experiment with tops, skirts or whatever else takes your fancy!
First, you'll measure how long you want the opening to be. Work out the length starting 1cm (or whatever your seam allowance is) above the start of the zipper teeth, right down to where your zipper teeth end. Cut two strips of fusible facing which are 1.5cm longer than that measurement and iron them onto the wrong sides of your garment where the zip will go.
Sew the right side of the zipper. The best way to do this is to start at the top with the zipper opened up. When you get close to the zipper pull, stop with the needle down. Pull up your presser foot and close the zipper. Most machines have two heights: halfway when you pull the lever up, and even higher when you push the lever further up. This can help when closing the zipper with the needle down.
Flip the left side of the skirt onto the right, so the lining is facing up and the back of the zipper is facing you. Align the unsewn side of the zipper with the edge of the cut rectangle of the back piece, right sides together. Baste and sew as in previous step. Be careful not to catch the lining.
With the right side of the back shell facing up, flip the bottom towards the top so you can see the bottom ends of the zipper. Pull the triangle down and sew it to the zipper ends. Try to catch the triangle along its broadest side.
That is a good explanation. I needed a simple, short version to refresh my memory and you were right on target. I have also seen info on sewing the exposed zipper in a lined garment using the sewing machine for all of it. Cannot remember where, though. Thank you.
I am replacing an exposed zipper in the front of a dance leotard, with front lining. I am trying to do so without dismantling the entire front assembly (including seams and neckline) of the Leo to get at everything. Do you have any information regarding simplifying this procedure? Thank you for your anticipated assistance.
Thanks for this advice. I am planning on inserting a zipper into the side darts of a skirt and was not sure whether I should cut a square at the end. There will be one at each side of the front for decoration.
You can incorporate this zipper into your garment in many ways. You can sew it on a pocket on pants, on the back of your very feminine top, on the front center seam of your tunic, on your skirt as decorative element and most commonly as side zipper for your fitted dress. They look best against masculine prints and plain fabrics
Method 2. Another option which makes the topstitching unnecessary is to stitch along the sides through the inside of the fold together with the zipper for both the sides. This way no stitch will be visible on the outside. Ensure that you have the zipper foot on. If there is any seam allowance in the back extending from behind the zipper, trim it away.
An exposed zipper is a cool functional way to add design details to you garment. I love how this skirt puts the exposed zip in the front, running all the way from the waist to the hem. Combined with a metallic brocade fabric, this mini skirt is perfect for a night out on the town. Read on to see how I would DIY it.
Step 3: For the fabric, I found this great metallic brocade from Mood. Using a flashy material in a smaller garment like a mini skirt is a great way to highlight something special without overwhelming.
Need help sewing Brumby? Visit the blog for Brumby Tips & Tutorials where we guide you through the various techniques and tricks to make your Brumby skirt.Share your makes! We love seeing what you've made! Don't forget to tag your projects #MNbrumby and @megannielsenpatterns.Follow our blog for more sewing tutorials and instagram for behind the scenes sneak peeks.Sign up for our newsletter to be notified of sales, special offers and new product releases.
Just finished a dupion silk skirt using the Brumby pattern. Turned out so well, I'm making another!Easy to follow, and I lined the skirt after seeing a suggestion on the pattern instructions.I substituted an invisible zip for the metal one because metal was a bit too "heavy" on silk.
Mostly used on jackets, but also on skirts and dresses too, an open ended zipper opens completely. They are usually stitched in such a way that the teeth are visible which can make for a nice contrast if the metal or plastic teeth are in a different colour.
Word to the wise: measure at least twice and make sure you are looking at the right numbers on your ruler: I used the Brumby Skirt zipper technique as extensively described in my prior post about a Beatrix tunic. I generally make two similar garments at a time. It is often quicker to cut out and sew two similar things. However, a downside to this approach is that when you make a mistake, you sometimes make it twice as I did in this case where I sewed a zipper opening that was not the same size as either of the zippers I had purchased (I realized later that I had lined up the wrong end of the ruler so I was off by an inch without realizing it) and had to delay finishing my projects while I waited for a new order of the right sized zippers to arrive.
That is really all to say that is new. Here are some pictures of the process. A sad zipper that is too small for its opening as seen below. I blame the ruler that has different numbers on the two sides. Of course, I was looking at the wrong side when I measured. I took this picture May 19th and then the project sat as Me Made May sped by and then it was June. More pictures of the Brumby zipper opening technique.Hem facings in process: step 1Step 2Step 3Sleeve facings
what if the skirt I am making is out of cotton and I want to do the same elastic waist band you demonstrated on knits. The cotton will fray at the top. What do you recommend doing to keep that from happening before or after it is attached to the elastic?
Next, fold the dress/skirt right sides together and shift the fabric to the left of the zipper, and line up the right edge of the zipper on the seam allowance for the right side of the back. Like this:
Stitch down the right side of the zipper. Then fold the whole dress/skirt right sides together, with the newly installed zipper folded in half. Starting at the bottom of your garment, stitch up to just past the bottom of the zipper join, without stitching the zipper itself. Make sure to backtack a few times at the zipper area.
However, the dress fabric is not attached to my zipper at the bottom of that V, leaving a tiny hole. To fix that, set your machine to a long stitch width, and as many stitches per inch as you can, then zigzag just below the V. I used 24 stitches per inch and the longest zigzag setting on my machine.
Please welcome Jen as she shares her tutorial to modify the Sandbridge Skirt to be a full zip down skirt. I absolutely love this hack, and I think it works perfectly with a tank top for summer and a cardigan and booties for fall!
The Sandbridge Skirt was immediately something I knew was missing from my wardrobe. I have made the pattern once already exactly to the pattern instructions and I have been wearing it all summer. After browsing for some denim skirt inspiration, I found an image of a full zip jean skirt with patch pockets from Madewell that I definitely wanted to recreate. The Madewell skirt is no longer available for purchase.
The zipper is a metal heavy jacket zipper. I wanted something that was a separating zipper and would be very strong. I installed the zipper according to the zipper instructions and topstitched along each side.
Exposed zippers are zippers that sit right on top of your garment, for a deconstructed look. An exposed zipper can add an element of interest to an otherwise plain garment. Sometimes I use them to add a pop of unexpected color. If you are going for an industrial look, this is your zipper! They can be really fun!
To sew an exposed zipper when you already have a seam, there are a few minor adjustments. First, pin the zipper smack dab in the center of the seam. Then, sew it on the same way and use your seam ripper to unpick the seam and open the zipper. The inside of your zipper will have a nice clean finish because of the folded seam allowance.
Hi Kate! I LOVE exposed zippers. I was pretty excited to see this tutorial. Pinned. And also I featured it on my blog today. Come check it out and grab a button if you want! :) -favorite-things-thursday_23.html 2b1af7f3a8